Battambang Travel Guide: Bamboo Train, French Heritage & Cambodian Countryside
Battambang is Cambodia's most charming heritage town — a sleepy riverside trading city in the country's north-west, three hours south of Siem Reap, famous for the original bamboo train (norry), the country's best-preserved French colonial architecture and a vibrant contemporary art scene. With more than 80 surviving colonial-era shophouses, a riverside boulevard, the spectacular Phare Ponleu Selpak circus school, and easy access to Cambodian countryside cycle tours, Battambang is the quietest, most authentic chapter of any Cambodia tour.
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History & Cultural Influence
Battambang was a major Khmer settlement long before Angkor — its 11th-century Wat Banan temple predates Angkor Wat. The town was annexed by Siam (Thailand) in 1795 and remained Thai until 1907, when France returned it to French Indochina. The French built the broad boulevards, shophouses and railway station that still define central Battambang, plus the iconic Battambang–Phnom Penh railway. After the Khmer Rouge years (1975–79), the railway fell into disuse and locals invented the "bamboo train" (norry) — wooden flatbed carts propelled along the abandoned tracks by small motorcycle engines.
Modern Battambang is one of South-East Asia's most unexpected art towns. The Phare Ponleu Selpak — a refugee-camp-founded NGO that supports underprivileged kids through circus, music and visual arts — has produced the famous Phare Cambodian Circus performers and is internationally renowned. The town also hosts Cambodia's most thoughtful art galleries (Romcheik 5, Sangker Gallery) and is the country's emerging boutique-hotel destination.
Quick facts:
Location: Battambang Province, north-west Cambodia
Distance from Siem Reap: 170 km — 3 hours by road
Distance from Phnom Penh: 290 km — 5 hours by road
Best for: French heritage, bamboo train, art scene, Cambodian countryside, slow travel
Best season: November–February
Top Attractions
Bamboo train (norry) — a 7 km flatbed ride through paddy fields outside town; book the original O Sra Lav route or the newer tourist-built track.
Battambang heritage walking tour — a 1 km circuit covers 80+ French colonial shophouses, the railway station and the riverside.
Phare Ponleu Selpak — the famous circus and arts school; daytime workshops and weekly evening shows (the original of Siem Reap's Phare Cambodian Circus).
Phnom Sampeau — 12 km south; a hilltop temple complex with the famous Killing Caves and dusk bat exodus from a cave (5–7 million bats fly out at dusk).
Wat Banan — 20 km south; an 11th-century pre-Angkorian Hindu temple — a quiet alternative to Angkor.
Battambang countryside cycle tour — half-day bike rides through Cambodian rice paddies, fish farms, rice-paper-makers and stilt-village schools.
Romcheik 5 Art Gallery — a contemporary art gallery showcasing emerging Cambodian artists.
Must-Try Dishes
Battambang fish amok — banana-leaf-steamed coconut-fish curry; particularly fresh in Battambang due to the Sangker river.
Bai sach chrouk — grilled marinated pork over rice with pickled vegetables; the Cambodian breakfast classic.
Lok lak — stir-fried beef in pepper-lime sauce; widespread.
Khmer red curry — milder than Thai; served with bread or rice.
Cambodian river prawns — large freshwater prawns grilled at the Battambang riverside.
Festivals & Local Celebrations
Khmer New Year — 13–15 April: three-day water and family festival.
Pchum Ben — September/October: 15-day Buddhist ancestor festival.
Water Festival — November: Sangker river boat races and food fairs.
Phare Ponleu Selpak Festival — varies: annual community arts festival.
Sangker River Festival — October: community celebration of the river's end-of-monsoon swell.
What to Do
Take a half-day countryside cycle tour with a local guide.
Ride the bamboo train (1 hour, USD 5 per person).
Visit Phare Ponleu Selpak in the morning to watch student rehearsals or training.
Visit Phnom Sampeau at dusk for the bat exodus.
Take a Khmer cooking class at Nary's Kitchen.
Walk the riverside French colonial heritage circuit at sunset.
Shopping
Battambang Central Market (Psar Nat) — fresh produce, Cambodian silk, silver jewellery.
Wat Sammakhi Reangsey craft workshop — fair-trade Cambodian handicrafts.
Smokin' Pot cooking-class boutique — recipe books and ingredients.
Lonely Tree Café (NGO) — fair-trade Cambodian handicrafts; supports street kids.
Romcheik 5 Art Gallery — contemporary Cambodian art prints.
Weather: Best Time to Visit
November–February (Best): cool dry; 22–32°C.
March–May: hot dry; 32–40°C.
June–October: rainy season; paddy fields beautiful green; cooler.
Bamboo train tip: avoid mid-afternoon when track is hottest.
Cultural Etiquette
Cover shoulders and knees at temples; remove shoes at shrines.
Ask permission before photographing locals.
Tip your guide USD 5–10/day.
Bamboo train operators: tip after the ride.
At Phnom Sampeau, never disrespect the Killing Caves memorial.
Essential Travel Information
Getting there: Most travellers drive from Siem Reap (3 hours) or Phnom Penh (5 hours). Cambodia Angkor Air does limited flights. The old French Battambang railway has been partly restored.
Getting around: Tuk-tuks and bicycles. The riverside town centre is walkable.
Money: ATMs in town. USD widely accepted.
Connectivity: Reliable 4G via Smart and Cellcard.
Cycle tour tip: Book the morning slot (6:30am start); ride through paddy fields before midday heat.
Where to Stay
Boutique heritage — Bambu Hotel (Battambang's flagship boutique), Hotel Royal Battambang, La Villa Boutique Hotel (1920s French villa).
Mid-range — Phka Villa, Au Cabaret Vert.
Authentic — Battambang Resort, Pomme Hotel.
Best base: central riverside for walkable French heritage; La Villa or Bambu for boutique charm.
Explore Tweet World Travel Cambodia Small Group Tour or contact Tweet World Travel for a tailor-made travel experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Helpful answers for travellers planning a Battambang stop on a Cambodia tour.
How many days should I spend in Battambang?
Two nights is ideal — one for the bamboo train, Phnom Sampeau and Wat Banan; one for the city heritage walk, Phare Ponleu Selpak and a Khmer cooking class.
Is the bamboo train ethical?
Yes — the bamboo train was a community innovation that became a tourism attraction. The original tracks are no longer operational; a new tourist version runs nearby.
When is the best time to visit Battambang?
November to February is cool, dry and ideal. The countryside is greenest June–October but mid-afternoon thunderstorms are common.
Should I visit Battambang or skip directly to Phnom Penh?
Battambang is the country's most overlooked gem — the slow pace, French heritage, art scene and countryside experience are unique. Two nights is a worthwhile detour between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
Is Battambang safe?
Yes — Battambang is one of Cambodia's safest towns. Standard travel awareness applies.
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