Phnom Penh Travel Guide: Royal Palace, Killing Fields & Mekong Riverside

History & Cultural Influence

Phnom Penh became the Khmer capital in 1432 after Angkor was abandoned, and grew into a major Mekong river trading hub. The French made it the capital of French Cambodia in 1865 and built the broad boulevards, Royal Palace and Art Deco mansions that still define the city centre. Phnom Penh was the "Pearl of Asia" by the 1960s — a sophisticated French-colonial capital admired across Asia.

Then came 17 April 1975, when the Khmer Rouge forced the entire 2-million population out of Phnom Penh in three days, beginning the four-year genocide that killed 1.7 to 2 million Cambodians. The city was almost empty until 1979 when Vietnamese forces drove the Khmer Rouge out. Reconstruction has been steady; today Phnom Penh is a thriving 2-million-population capital with a growing tourism economy, restored Royal Palace, and frank memorialisation of the Khmer Rouge period at Tuol Sleng (S-21) and Choeung Ek Killing Fields. Visitors find Phnom Penh both deeply moving and unexpectedly welcoming.

Quick facts:

Population: 2 million
Located: on the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers
Distance from Siem Reap: 320 km — 1 hour by air, 6 hours by road
Best for: Khmer royal heritage, Khmer Rouge memorial history, Mekong sunsets, French colonial architecture
Best season: November–February

Top Attractions

Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda — the still-occupied 1866 royal residence; visit the Throne Hall and the 5,000-silver-tile floored Silver Pagoda.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) — a former school turned Khmer Rouge torture centre; one of the world's most sobering memorial museums.
Choeung Ek Killing Fields — 15 km south; the most famous Khmer Rouge mass grave site. Take the included audio-guide.
National Museum — the world's finest Khmer-art collection — pre-Angkor and Angkorian sculpture.
Wat Phnom — the city's namesake hill-top pagoda founded in 1372.
Sisowath Quay riverside — a 2 km Mekong-side promenade; the city's favourite sunset walk.
Russian Market (Toul Tom Poung) — massive covered bazaar; the best Cambodian craft shopping in the country.

Phnom Penh palace and street, Cambodia (Unsplash)

Must-Try Dishes

Amok — banana-leaf-steamed coconut-fish curry; Cambodia's national dish.
Lok lak — stir-fried beef in pepper-lime sauce with rice and fried egg.
Khmer red curry — milder coconut-based curry; serve with bread or rice.
Bobor (rice porridge) — the Phnom Penh breakfast classic; topped with fried garlic, peanuts and pork.
Khmer noodle soups — kuy teav (clear noodle soup) and num banh chok (curry noodles) are the city specialities.

Festivals & Local Celebrations

Khmer New Year (Chol Chnam Thmey) — 13–15 April: three-day water and family festival.
Water Festival (Bon Om Touk) — November: spectacular Mekong boat-racing festival; the city floods with 2 million visitors.
Pchum Ben (Festival of the Dead) — September/October: 15-day Buddhist ancestor festival; pagodas overflow with offerings.
Independence Day — 9 November: parades and flag celebrations.
King's Birthday — 14 May: national holiday with Royal Palace ceremonies.

What to Do

Visit the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda in the cooler morning (8am opening).
Spend half a day at Tuol Sleng + Choeung Ek (essential but emotionally intense).
Walk the Sisowath Quay riverside at sunset.
Take a sunset Mekong river cruise (departures from FCC Phnom Penh).
Cycle the riverside on a tuk-tuk-driver-led city tour.
Eat at the Friends Restaurant (a Mith Samlanh NGO restaurant training street kids in hospitality).

Shopping

Russian Market (Toul Tom Poung) — silver jewellery, Cambodian silk, antique brass, kramas (chequered scarves).
Central Market (Phsar Thmei) — 1937 Art Deco market; jewellery, watches, fabrics.
Artisans Angkor showroom — fair-trade Cambodian crafts; supports rural apprenticeships.
Friends 'n' Stuff — a Mith Samlanh NGO craft shop; proceeds train street kids.
AEON Mall — modern air-conditioned shopping for global brands.

Weather: Best Time to Visit

November–February (Best): cool dry; 22–32°C; the comfortable months.
March–May: hot dry; 32–38°C; mid-afternoon is brutal.
June–October: rainy season; afternoon thunderstorms; manageable but humid.
Festival peak: November Water Festival is spectacular but extremely crowded.

Cultural Etiquette

Cover shoulders and knees at the Royal Palace and at pagodas.
Photography at Tuol Sleng — respectful only; some rooms forbid photography.
At Choeung Ek, listen to the audio guide silently.
Never disrespect the King or royal family.
Tip tuk-tuk drivers USD 5 per half-day; restaurant tipping 10%.

Essential Travel Information

Getting there: Daily flights from Bangkok (1h), Singapore (2h), Ho Chi Minh (1h), Siem Reap (1h). Phnom Penh International Airport is 10 km from the city.

Getting around: Tuk-tuks ubiquitous; PassApp (Cambodian ride-hailing) for fixed fares. The Royal Palace area is walkable.

Money: ATMs everywhere. USD accepted everywhere alongside Cambodian Riel.

Connectivity: Reliable 4G via Smart and Cellcard.

Visa: Visa on arrival USD 30; e-Visa via evisa.gov.kh.

Where to Stay

Ultra-luxury — Raffles Hotel Le Royal (a 1929 colonial classic), Rosewood Phnom Penh (high-floor luxury), Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra.
Boutique — The Plantation Urban Resort, Pavilion Hotel, FCC Phnom Penh.
Mid-range — Aquarius Hotel and Urban Resort, Frangipani Royal Palace Hotel.
Best base: Riverside near the Royal Palace for walkable atmosphere; BKK1 for restaurants and design boutiques; Daun Penh district for heritage charm.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Helpful answers for first-timers planning a Phnom Penh stop on a Cambodia tour.

How many days should I spend in Phnom Penh?

Two nights covers the Royal Palace, Tuol Sleng + Choeung Ek, riverside sunset, and the Russian Market. Most premium Cambodia tours use Phnom Penh as the 2-night arrival or departure hub.

Should I visit the Killing Fields?

Yes — emotionally difficult but essential context for understanding Cambodia. Take the included audio guide. Allow 2–3 hours.

Is Phnom Penh safe?

Generally yes — Phnom Penh is one of South-East Asia's safer capitals. Watch for bag-snatchers on tuk-tuks at intersections. Avoid walking alone late at night.

When is the best time to visit?

November to February for cool dry weather. Avoid the November Water Festival weekend unless you specifically want the crowds.

How do I get to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap?

Fly (1 hour, USD 100), drive (6 hours private car USD 80), or take the recently-improved Mekong fast-boat (5–6 hours, scenic). The drive passes through Cambodian countryside.