Sur & Ras al Jinz Travel Guide: Omani Dhow Builders & Green Turtle Nesting
Sur is Oman's most famous coastal town — a traditional dhow-building port on the Gulf of Oman, three hours south-east of Muscat, where 200-year-old wooden ships are still hand-built using the same methods that once carried Sindbad and Omani traders to Zanzibar, Mombasa and Calicut. Just an hour east, the Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve protects one of the world's most important green sea turtle nesting beaches — around 13,000 turtles return each year. Combined with stunning coastal forts, the Bimmah Sinkhole and the gateway to the emerald wadis of Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi, Sur and Ras al Jinz are essential stops on every Wonders of Oman tour.
Explore Tweet World Travel Oman Small Group Tour or contact Tweet World Travel for a tailor-made travel experience.
History & Cultural Influence
Sur has been a major Arabian port for over 1,500 years. By the 17th century it was Oman's second-largest city after Muscat, a key hub of the Omani maritime empire that ruled Zanzibar, Mombasa and the East African coast. Sur dhows — large two- and three-masted sailing vessels — carried frankincense, dates, slaves and ivory across the Indian Ocean to India, Yemen and East Africa. The town's shipbuilders still hand-craft these wooden vessels at the Al Ayjah dhow yard, using techniques largely unchanged for two centuries.
Ras al Jinz, 45 km east of Sur at Oman's easternmost point, is the world's second-most important green sea turtle nesting beach (after Tortuguero in Costa Rica). Around 13,000 green turtles return to lay 50,000–60,000 eggs each year between April and October, with peak nesting June–September. The Omani government designated the area a protected reserve in 1996; the Ras al Jinz Scientific Centre opened in 2008 with simple ecolodge accommodation and ranger-led nightly turtle-watching tours. Sea turtle populations have stabilised here thanks to strict protection — a rare conservation success story.
Quick facts:
Location: Ash Sharqiyah South Governorate, eastern coast of Oman
Distance from Muscat: 200 km — 3 hours by road via the coast or Wahiba
Distance from Ras al Jinz: 45 km east of Sur — 1 hour by road
Best for: traditional dhow building, turtle watching, Bimmah Sinkhole, gateway to Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi
Best season: October–April (cool) or June–August for peak turtle nesting
Top Attractions
Al Ayjah Dhow Yard — watch master craftsmen hand-build wooden dhows in Sur's 200-year-old shipbuilding tradition.
Sur Maritime Museum — small but excellent museum on Oman's seafaring history and dhow construction.
Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve — nightly ranger-led turtle-nesting tours (8pm and 4am); around 13,000 green turtles nest annually.
Sur Corniche — a 2 km waterfront promenade lined with traditional Omani houses and dhow-watching benches.
Bimmah Sinkhole (Hawiyat Najm) — 40 minutes west of Sur on the Muscat road; a 50m turquoise-water limestone sinkhole, swimming permitted.
Wadi Shab — 30 minutes east of Bimmah; a hike-and-swim emerald-pool wadi with a hidden waterfall cave.
Wadi Tiwi — a quieter alternative to Wadi Shab; cascading turquoise pools and date-palm villages.
Must-Try Dishes
Mashuai — whole grilled Sur kingfish served with rice and lime; the coastal-Oman classic.
Maqshoosh — baked fish in spiced rice; a Sur seafood specialty.
Halwa Omani — caramel-rosewater-saffron jelly; Sur is famous for its halwa producers.
Shorbat al-samak — spicy Omani fish soup with onion, coriander and lemon.
Kahwa with dates — cardamom-saffron coffee served with Omani Khalas dates; the welcome ritual.
Festivals & Local Celebrations
Ras al Jinz Turtle Nesting Season — April to October: peak June–September; nightly ranger-led tours.
Eid al-Fitr & Eid al-Adha — varies: major Muslim celebrations; Sur fishing community fills the corniche.
Oman National Day — 18 November: parades and dhow displays along the Sur corniche.
Wadi Shab swimming season — October–April: water levels are best.
Sur Wooden Boat Festival — varies: celebrates traditional dhow building and racing.
What to Do
Tour the Al Ayjah dhow yard in the morning to watch traditional shipbuilding.
Drive 45 minutes east to Ras al Jinz for the nightly turtle-watching tour (8pm sunset session or 4am pre-dawn).
Stay overnight at the Ras al Jinz Scientific Centre eco-lodge for a near-guaranteed turtle sighting.
On the drive back to Muscat, stop at the Bimmah Sinkhole for a swim.
Hike-and-swim Wadi Shab — 45 minutes uphill walking, the highlight is the underwater cave waterfall.
Walk the Sur Corniche at sunset for the iconic dhow-and-lighthouse photograph.
Shopping
Sur Halwa producers — world-famous Sur Omani halwa in saffron, rosewater, cardamom and chocolate varieties.
Dhow-yard miniature ships — hand-carved wooden dhow models, available at the yard.
Ras al Jinz visitor centre shop — turtle-themed conservation merchandise; proceeds fund the reserve.
Sur souq — silver jewellery, Omani frankincense, fresh dates.
Weather: Best Time to Visit
October–April (Best for sightseeing): cool 22–30°C; perfect dhow-yard and wadi swimming.
May–September: hot 35–45°C; avoid mid-afternoons.
June–September (Peak turtle nesting): best chance of seeing nesting and hatching turtles.
April–October (Turtle season): broader nesting window; lower visitor numbers shoulder months.
Cultural Etiquette
At Ras al Jinz, follow ranger instructions strictly — no flashlights, flash photography or loud talking near nesting turtles.
Wear modest swimwear at Bimmah Sinkhole, Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi.
Cover shoulders and knees when entering Omani towns.
Photograph dhow craftsmen respectfully — ask first.
Tip your turtle-tour ranger USD 5–10 per group.
Essential Travel Information
Getting there: Most travellers drive from Muscat (3 hours via the coastal road, stopping at Bimmah and Wadi Shab). Hire a 4WD or car-and-driver from Muscat. Some tours arrive via the Wahiba Sands desert.
Turtle tour timing: Two nightly tours at Ras al Jinz: sunset (8pm, nesting females arriving) and pre-dawn (4am, hatchlings emerging). Both are equally magical.
Money: ATMs in Sur. Cards at hotels.
Connectivity: Reliable 4G via Omantel and Ooredoo.
Wadi Shab access: Park near the bridge; take the 5-minute boat ride across (1 OMR/person) then 45-minute uphill walk to the swimming pools.
Where to Stay
Boutique — Ras al Jinz Scientific Centre Eco-Lodge (rangers-run, overnight turtle-experience). Sur Plaza Hotel, Sur Beach Hotel.
Mid-range — Sur Grand Hotel, Sallan Hotel.
Best base: Ras al Jinz Eco-Lodge for the turtle experience; Sur Plaza Hotel for the corniche; the new Husn al-Saif Boutique near the dhow yard.
Explore Tweet World Travel Oman Small Group Tour or contact Tweet World Travel for a tailor-made travel experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Helpful answers for travellers planning a Sur and Ras al Jinz stop on an Oman tour.
How many days should I spend in Sur and Ras al Jinz?
Two nights is ideal — one in Sur for the dhow yard and corniche, one at Ras al Jinz for the turtle-watching night experience.
Will I see turtles at Ras al Jinz?
Almost certainly — sightings are 90%+ during the April–October nesting season, with June–September the absolute peak. The reserve guarantees attempted viewings on every tour.
When is the best time to visit?
October to April for general sightseeing comfort. June to September for peak turtle nesting (but very hot).
Should I do the 8pm or 4am turtle tour?
Both are wonderful. The 8pm tour shows females nesting; the 4am tour shows hatchlings making their dash to the sea. Eco-lodge guests can attend both.
Can I combine Sur with Wahiba Sands?
Yes — they're 2 hours apart. The classic Oman tour route: Muscat → Wahiba Sands (2 nights) → Sur/Ras al Jinz (2 nights) → back to Muscat via Wadi Shab and Bimmah Sinkhole.
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